A perfectly crafted outfit looks stylish and luxurious, drapes beautifully, fits every inch of your body correctly and feels comfortable to wear. Bespoke tailoring is as much about the right fit and design, as about the fabric that should hold up to make for a lasting style.
Your bespoke outfit can be designed and styled in many different ways, but the real mark of excellence lies in its strength and performance over time.
The fabric you choose will not only determine how you look and feel in your garment, but also how long it will last you. The choice of fabric is a very important decision to consider right at the start of designing your outfit and often the wrong choice will make an unsuccessful outfit.
The devil is in the details
So now you are looking through a catalog of fabrics with choices abound! Unless you want a particular fabric for your outfit, it is good to know more about the cloth that will make your style than just how it feels and looks. On the face of it, fabrics appear good on shine, style or texture, but knowing the little technical details of what goes into each, will guide you to pick the appropriate one for your bespoke outfit.
Yarn count – A yarn count indicates the fineness of the yarn. The higher the count, the finer the quality of the yarn. Luxury fabrics, especially used in bespoke tailoring, are usually of a count 140s and higher. For casual clothes, a lower count can be used.
Yarn Number – A yarn number indicates the yarn-per-inch in the warp and weft. A lower yarn number would mean a loosely woven fabric with more spaces in between and will make a more sheer cloth. The higher the number, the more tightly woven and durable the cloth is.
Ply – Once the yarn is spun, it can be used directly to weave a fabric. In this case it will be a one-ply yarn. For a higher quality weave, yarns can be twisted together into yarns made of two-ply yarns. Fabrics woven with two-ply yarns have better strength and durability than one-ply yarns.
Warp & Weft – While weaving a fabric, two sets of threads/yarns are used. One that runs vertically is known as warp and the yarn that runs horizontally is known as the weft. While choosing the perfect luxury fabric, pick a cloth that uses two-ply yarn in both the Warp and Weft direction also known as 2×2 ply.
Besides these details, some more things need to be check marked on the right fabric before it is cut to your fit. You may have a pattern in mind and pick a fabric for it or a choice of fabric for which you need a pattern that goes well with it. Choose an appropriate fabric for trousers, chinos, skirts and other bottom wear and one that goes well for shirts, tunics, coats and other top wear.
Keep in mind the climate you wear it in. Do you want to dry clean or need a more durable fabric that can be washed in the machine. Want to experiment with a thicker fabric for occasions and short wear purpose or would you be more comfortable in a lightweight breathable fabric for travel or long day wear.